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[From the 2024 Holiday Magazine]

 

Recently, I had the pleasure of sharing an early dinner with friends at Brasserie Benelux, a unique cultural haven located downtown on Broadway. Having visited the place five or six times before, I can attest to the consistently terrific experience it offers. The international flair, particularly the Central European cuisine, was what initially drew me in. As someone with German, Jewish, Austrian, and Swiss roots, the dishes my mom and Gram cooked were always a taste of home. I was curious to see if this restaurant could recreate that sense of comfort, especially since both my mom and Gram have passed, and I miss their company and cooking immensely.

 

The food, presentation, waitstaff, beer, and ambiance at Brasserie Benelux were all top-notch. The exceptional service we received made us feel truly valued and important. I was so pleased with my initial experience that I returned with friends from some of those same countries, and they were equally thrilled. The quality of the food and service here is exceptional, a testament to their dedication to providing a memorable dining experience for anyone wanting to dine there.

For this visit, we (myself, Chris and Susan) all commented on the beautiful sparkling lights flowing onto Broadway and illuminating the interior– just charming! We were ushered to the back of the restaurant, to the intimate Saratoga Room, where the warmth of polished wood tables, twinkle lights – and the most beautiful track mural - enveloped us in warmth and comfort, making us feel… Welcomed. The privacy was delightful. We don't get to see each other often enough, so it was a joy to have a quiet place where we could share a meal and laugh (loudly at times!) while catching up with each other, of course by the end of the meal, this room was full with other diners and we were on our best behavior!

When Chris asked where the name of the restaurant came from (and how to pronounce it! Bruh – Seer, if you were wondering), our bartender explained how the word "brasserie" is derived from the French for "brew." It’s meant to describe a casual eatery that serves quality regional hearty foods and offers a selection of drinks - typically beer. (We tried two that were delicious, refreshing, and perfectly poured by long term bartender Jackie!) Benelux is used to pinpoint the European region comprising Belgium, the Netherlands, and Luxembourg. Lucky for me – the restaurant also highlights specialty foods from places like Germany, Poland, Austria, Czech, and Scandinavia, to name a few. YUM. “We wanted to have a name that would represent our cuisine, which features central Europe,” Chef Armand Vanderstigchel shared when he left the kitchen to visit our table and chat for a few minutes. 

That was when we learned more about his nationally published cookbooks “Adirondack Cuisine” and “Chicken Wings Across America.” Chef Armand also told us he is a monthly writer for 518 Profiles Magazine, and his column “518 Culinary Destinations” (one of Chris’ favorites!) covers interesting culinary finds from a chef’s perspective. “It’s vital to recognize, as a restaurant owner and chef, how important it is to embrace other restaurants rather than view them as competition. A good cluster of great eateries in any town attracts people to visit, dine, shop, and stay there. It’s a win for everyone.”

We started with a variety of small plates we could pass around. Now, I’m not a fan of Pate, but I was willing to try the restaurant’s Pate Campagna De Poiure. Made with artisanal pork and duck, it was creamy and delicately flavorful. We spread it on warm Euro bread that came with the dish. Although I might not order it again, Chris and Susan raved about it and said it was one of the best they’d tried to date.

I’ll be the first to admit the Swedish Meatballs were better than my mom’s—by a lot! We learned they were made with a sirloin blend, mixed with ten different spices, and drenched in a delicious sour cream gravy. When we commented on the texture and how light and airy they were, Chef Tatiana explained it perfectly when she shared the recipe and how the way they were made helped them ‘breathe.’ She was correct; these piquant tidbits were not dense or heavy like other Swedish meatballs we had tried over the years.    

One of our favorite appetizers was the Amsterdam Authentic Bitterballen, which arrived at our table in a small metal dish with a tiny country flag to show the recipe's origin. These popular, crisp shell croquette Dutch bar snacks are made with savory beef sirloin and Bechamel filling. The spicy mustard on the side is perfect for dipping. Honestly, it was hard to share them!    

Another favorite was the Finger Lakes Salad – it was so refreshing and a great segue into the main dishes on their way from the kitchen. The salad was a bed of fresh wild greens, organic strawberries, the plumpest blueberries I’ve ever seen, juicy Cabernet Franc grapes, toasted walnuts, and a scrumptious Catskill Honey Cider Vinaigrette. The dressing was perfection as it drew out each flavor and never overwhelmed.

During our dining experience here at Brassiere Benelux, Chef Armand and Chef Tatiana, as well as the bartender and waitstaff, worked their way around the eatery, seating new visitors and checking in on other diners during their meals. We could hear their genuine interest in the patrons' day-to-day lives and their take on the menu. Their tone was warm and inviting from start to finish, and I think we all felt like extended family. We learned that they speak many languages at the restaurant – Dutch, German, Eastern European. I imagine patrons appreciate that unique interaction with this charming husband and wife team.

I was excited to have their world-famous Jager Schnitzel again and wanted to know what Chris and Susan thought of it. Firstly, the thinly pounded pork loin was lightly breaded and so generous in size, it draped over the side of the plate it arrived on! It was sizzling hot, so tender and flavorful, covered in a hunter mushroom sauce, atop tender pieces of potato, with a generous serving of red cabbage. Watching the faces of my friends when they took the first bite was priceless. Eyes closed, they savored the meat and sauce briefly before commenting. Even though they used words like ‘tender,’ ‘delicious,’ and ‘never had better,’ most of the reaction was ‘ooooh’ and ‘ahhhh,’ which is always a good sign! The red cabbage was a taste of home for me – I wished my mom and Gram were at the table. They would have struck up a conversation with Chef Armand for sure.   

The last dish we tried was their Choucroute Garnie Belgian style– comprised of artisanal locally smoked kielbasa, smoked pork loin, pork belly, Hunter Bigos cabbage, home fries, and Garnie. The kielbasa snapped when I bit into it! It was delightfully paired with the cabbage, which had a sweet and tangy flavor—another hit.

For dessert, we tried a toasted coconut carrot cake (airiest cake ever, so moist and light!!) and these fantastic strawberry mascarpone crepes. What can I say? Perfection! The European Pastry Chefs (Sisters Roxy and Oksana), as well as Tiana, create the most succulent goodies!

At the end of the evening, we all hugged Jackie - our very attentive bartender / waitress - feeling like we were saying good night to a family member. It felt like she had taken so much time to make us feel like we were the only ones in the restaurant – even though it was apparent she’d been slammed all evening. Chris, Susan, and I appreciate dining at a place where we might walk in as strangers but leave with a connection to the people and their backstories. Brasserie Benelux was that place.