Skip to main content

Written by Maureen Werther | Photos by Susan Blackburn

"Food, Glorious Food!"

. 

Does anyone remember that resounding lyric belted out by a chorus of hungry boys in the hit Broadway musical, Oliver!? A recent dining adventure at Park & Elm restaurant in Glens Falls could be summed up in that one simple lyric.

The Market at Park & Elm opened in November 2022 and the restaurant opened the following month. In that short time, it has made a name for itself in the ever-growing culinary scene of the region. A combination fine-dining establishment, gourmet market and delicatessen, Park & Elm is the not so little place on the corner that was purchased and renovated by Glens Falls businesswoman, Elizabeth Miller and her son, Ben Miller.

Behind the scenes, the success of Park & Elm is orchestrated by the dynamic team at Park Street Hospitality, the driving force behind both the restaurant and the catering and events services at the iconic Park Theater (which was purchased and renovated for $4 million by Ms. Miller).

">Ben Miller leads the team as its Operations Manager. Assisting him are Brian LaRock, Dining Room Manager at Park and Elm, who oversees the restaurant's day-to-day operations; Anita MacDonald is the Marketing Director; Trevor Faulkner is the Retail Manager, he manages the Market and Delicatessen; Kibbie Vedder is the Catering and Events Manager at The Park Theater. Together with a dedicated culinary team, they form the backbone of Park Street Hospitality.

But enough of that– let’s talk about the food!

I’ll set the scene. We enter a spacious anteroom, where we have an option to go right or left. On our right is the spacious Market and Delicatessen area. The shelves are lined with row upon row of imported foods and local products, and there’s ample counter seating space at the windows allowing diners to ‘people watch’ as they enjoy one of the many delectable breakfast and lunch items from its menu.

The Park & Elm kitchen creates all the items on the Market menu, including the signature homemade focaccia bread, which is, frankly, to die for.

To the left is the restaurant, which is a blend of upscale, East Village-like charm and hubbub, combined with a laid back and relaxed style that lets you know you’re in Glens Falls. On this particular Friday night, things are hopping in the restaurant and there’s hardly an open seat in the bar area, as people enjoy great food and drinks before the hockey game at nearby Cool Insuring Arena. Despite how busy it is, our service is outstanding, and our seating is roomy and relaxed.

But we’re here to taste food – and drinks – so it’s not long before our cocktails and first course arrive. Amid sips of a beautifully balanced cocktail called Provencal Tonic, we are treated to starters of Deviled Fried Oysters with hot honey and sea salt, which are a sexy version of southern “Po Boys,” combined with the best deviled eggs you’ve ever had. The Cheddar & Chive Tater Tots are a sophisticated version of a childhood favorite served with a tomato chili jam that works quite nicely in place of ketchup, thank you very much!

The salad course is a Sweet & Sour Roasted Cauliflower, created from a tri-color heirloom cauliflower and fresh herbs from Sunset Farm in nearby Queensbury, owned by Elizabeth Miller. In fact, many of the ingredients used in the Park & Elm kitchen come from the farm. Didn’t think you liked your vegetables? Think again.

While we’re waiting for our next course (and sipping on a savory and yummy Berry Curry cocktail), we talk about the talent in the kitchen and behind the bar.

Executive Chef Matthew J. Delos and Sous Chef Colin Chase are the creators of the feast. Delos is well-known from his tenure with Mazzone Hospitality and other highly successful restaurants in the Albany and Glens Falls region. Chase is also well known in and around Glens Falls, where he has been honing his culinary skills for over 16 years.

Park & Elm’s beverage “mastermind” is Ethan McKee. He manages the entire beverage program, and his libations are fresh, flavorful, and artfully garnished. Many people will remember McKee’s mixology talents from his days at Morrissey’s at the Adelphi Hotel.

The surf and turf courses did not disappoint. We sampled the Maple Moonshine Half-Chicken with a delightful broccoli-rabe salad, the Bone-In Pork Schnitzel in a juniper brown butter emulsion, seared sea scallops with roasted beet risotto, and the pan-roasted salmon with roasted fennel resting atop a crispy and flavorful polenta cake – perfection.

Our dessert choices – as if we had room for dessert – was a modern take on the classic six layer carrot cake, with crystalized ginger and caramel sauce. My personal favorite was the – Wait for it – Lemon, Lavender & Blueberry Crème Brulée. Both choices went quite well with the remarkable Espresso Martini.

From soup to nuts, our evening at Park & Elm lived up to its hype – and then some. The combination of skilled culinary professionals, fresh local ingredients, lively eclectic takes on classic favorites, and a highly professional management team and staff, makes Park & Elm that little place on the corner that I, for one, will keep coming back to for more great spirits, wonderful food, and a stylish, welcoming ambiance.